Sortez le dimanche

More of my short trip to Paris: it included visits at the Natural History Museum and the Constantin Brancusi studio, the odd church, lots of cafes, but mostly it consisted of being rained on in the streets (don't be fooled by the happy mood of this board...)

Pas de jaloux

Second one of my series is for my darling: the world is a better place because of you.

Chez Papa

So I had a teeny holiday (and lots of shit time) in Paris. I'm sure you're glad I want to share it with you.

On a side line, I wish I would have changed this damn template long ago, but I haven't, so if you want to see anything at all you are going to have to click on it - sorry. 

Here is the first of my photo slots - I've arranged them on moodboards for less uploading hassle and because I am, well... moody.

Surprise

 A spring's day out with friends brought photos of others' families, vans, rest spots, and summer all around.

Pop a smile: new shop additions

I just love vintage jewellery of modest making, that didn't come into this world to be fancy, but somehow managed to cheat its own destiny into becoming something of beauty. Nothing beats it when it comes to brightening your day (and some of that joy rubs on others, too). Sweet little smile-poppers, they are.

Rust variations on late 1920's casual-collegiate-sportswear

Whilst a decidedly cold spring makes wearing a sensible coat and hat still necessary, it doesn't mean one cannot have some fun doing just that. For me, introducing a tie in the scheme always goes a long length to provide that fun (the one above is probably the favourite in my little collection). And as you can see from these scans from the Sears catalogues showing late 20s/ early 30's sports and casual wear, I am not alone in that thought. 

These are the fashions that I like best, but recreating them is not easy, mainly due to the scarcity and high prices of these vintage items. For example the search for a typical everyday shirt of this period,  albeit a basic utilitarian item, is not for the faint hearted, nor is it for those on a budget. There are places that specialize in quality reproductions, but again one needs to be prepared to part with significant sums of money in order to obtain those.

I am finding that the vintage market in general is becoming more and more exclusive, with  prices that have rocketed over the last year in particular, in some cases reaching rather staggering amounts.There are of course reasons why this happens, the bottom line being an increased demand for a very  limited product. There is also the argument that the quality of craftsmanship in those vintage garments commands their high price, which is a matter of course until you notice that even examples in a pretty shabby state can be far from cheap.

All of which doesn't make it any easier for  those like me whose aesthetic interests are not matched by a relevant spending power, but then I guess I've touched upon this subject a number of times on this blog. I certainly envy those that have the skills to make their own clothes, as it seems the only way to go. When that is not possible, the last resource is to look into more recent vintage or modern clothing that one could style to emulate their beloved fashions. This is what I end up doing most of the time.

1928/29 sportswear

And so I am yet to find the perfect plaid pleated skirt to fit the bill, so but this 70's wool skirt is very serviceable and I find that I can integrate it fairly successfully in earlier period style outfits. Apart from the brown & orange stripe tie, it is the only other vintage garment built into these outfits. 

The rust coat is a second hand Topshop item that I thought had a definite late 20's silhouette to it, the burnt orange cloche is another modern buy that I customized, and the Bronte straw hat is my most recent purchase in a boutique the other day - at £45 a guilt charged splash and the most expensive item worn here. 

I rarely buy anything new at full price because things are rarely worth the money, and this is no exception. I just gave in to my weakness for hats. Bad, bad girl!

Golf outfit, cca 1930, 

from 1930's Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook

I love these outfits that play with my favourite look, some sort of hybrid between sports, collegiate and casual wear inspired by fashions from around 1928-1931. They may not be authentic, but they are a lot of fun to wear, and I guess there's some thrill in managing to create the look with very limited means. 

Having said that, there is nothing like the real stuff, which is the very thing that fuels this dream I'm forever chasing...

In pure crocus fashion

www.decotomodern.co.uk 

Here I am, dressing to imitate a sugar sifter...Err, no, it's just that my take on spring is someone else's take on autumn. Still, you ought to appreciate the solid deco streak. I do. I mean, I'm the only one that does. This is one of my favourite outfits of late, worn at work and out and about, yet the best I managed to squeeze out of someone was "God you're colourful today". I did wear it with a green necklace at the time, just to make sure everyone was getting the reference. Ha!

Still, I continue to be bemused by it, as much as I am by my hair in the first day of a set. This is how it looks nowadays (I've had it cut in a shorter bob at the beginning of February) - once those rollers come out. Welcome to the 20's afro of some sorts! Relieved to be in fancy company here, with the likes of Clara Bow, Claudette Colbert, Marion Davies and Marie Prevost. It's always a consolation to find that others have gone through your pain too...:)

xx That's all xx

www.decoskin.co.uk -

Goodbye winter

 

We may be ready to wave winter goodbye, but an unusually cold early spring makes for plenty of opportunity show you another one of the knits whipped up by mother during the winter months. 

But when I say whipped up, don't harbour any illusions - while the actual knitting involved in this project was fairly straightforward, the waiting time surpassed that by a long stretch. I had been wanting one of these for longer than I can remember. Now that it's done it almost feels like relief :)

 

 The yarn used is Debbie Bliss Luxury Tweed, a mixture of wool and angora in a chunky weight. I must say, I love this yarn despite its lack of density; it feels like I imagined it would feel, warm and cosy, yet light and soft, without much fluffiness. It's a pleasure to wear. 

 Speaking about which, I must admit this project was pure self indulgence. I mean, what sort of uses an outfit like this may have apart from fancy dog walking? - and I am yet to reach that stage in my life where I can have a dog, let alone luxury walk it. 

Still, it counts as one for the heart.

Loosely based on the cardigans in the images above, the design as always was improvised around the quantities of yarn I had. With a little bit more than I needed in blue but not quite enough in red, mother came up with the idea of making a double row in blue at the bottom since I didn't want any of it in the collar nor along the buttoning edge. 

This looks fine at the cuffs, but not quite so at the bottom of the main body of the piece, especially after the pockets have been added. It looks odd and there is too much blue concentrated in one area for my liking. If I could change something about it, this would be it. 

It just shows how important it is to get your yarn quantities right if you want that little project close to your soul to come out just right.

There you go, it's a wrap. 

But, just as I type this, it starts to snow some more.

Caped for spring

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Outfit details:

1930's inspired, knitted cape, with vintage vegetable ivory buttons and a 1930's buckle;

vintage crochet beret from etsy, vintage glass beaded hat pin, also from etsy;

modern skirt and Miss L-Fire shoes. 

Whilst spring remains in the realms of the imagination, this little project has come to life - if a somewhat unfulfilled one as I will further explain. Starting point to be observed below, in the shape of this McCall cape, which in my version has a shorter length.
This was partially to do with the limited quantity of yarn available - 900g -1000g of a discontinued Rowan Chunky Tweed (the back of the vest which is not visible is made of a different yarn). I am actually on the lookout for more of this yarn if anyone is de-stashing, as this project really needs some rounding up.

There were not only those issues that made me choose a shorter length, but also thoughts of practicality and look - I did not want this to be totally over the top; looking back on this I'm not sure the option I took had any impact on those matters, however a longer length, if achievable at all, would have resulted in a heavier fabric and the cape would have been pulled down a lot more by its own weight.

 

 I am happy overall with the way the yarn behaved - saying this from the perspective of one who didn't actually do the knitting job :) - the texture and weight were a good match for this project, and the construction gives it a nice drape at the back. There is an unfortunate tendency for the front sides to roll in despite a chunkier border worked by mother, but hey, knitted fabric will do that. 

What is far more bothersome is that due to an error of calculation the cape sides meet at the front a lot further then required. This results into the best part of my arms showing, only made worse by a tendency of the cape to gather and pull towards the back. 

Now as a temporary measure I folded the top sides of the cape at the shoulder and pinned them in place with buttons, which changes a bit the design of the coat, not only at the front, but also at the back where this takes somewhat away from that swing shape that you can see in the McCall image. It's the best I can do until this can make its way back to mother for proper attention.

You can see below how messy the button job is, as I couldn't get the sides of the cape to fold neatly and at the same level, and there is some pulling at the vest going on as well. There are ways to put this right while also going back to the original design of the cape at the front. I think it needs  2 sections added to it so it becomes wider and covers the shoulder/arm as intended without being puled from the sides by buttons or otherwise.

This however involves getting my hands on more yarn, which is proving more than challenging as this was discontinued quite a while back. I am thinking to unravel the vest and use the material to make up the 2 extra sections I need. I could then have the vest re-knitted from a substitute yarn - the trouble I am having here though is finding something that would match not only the texture but the colour too.. What a mess, hey?!...

 

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New in the shop

  

The wonderful shoes above are so pretty it hurts.Would hurt even more trying to get your feet in them, they are tiny!!! Best suited for those of us with masochistic behavior,or other than that those who simply like to dwell over what they cannot have. 

 

If, like me, you wear a human size in shoes, there is a danger these more recent louis heels might actually fit, and furthermore allow you, if at all necessary, to walk about. Might be just the ticket to those cocktail fueled 20's and 30's parties providing you're not a purist with easily hurt sensibilities.However if your radar for non-authentic has picked a strong signal and is bleeping like mad setting your teeth on edge, I strongly advise you to move course immediately and keep close to a box of plasters.

Negotiating that big deal today, are you? Show them you really mean business by dangling this in your way to the office!  Yes it's made to be flashed at the opponent, and I promise you they'll never know what's hit them.. Speaking about flashing, it also makes those green envy leds go lala..A word of cautiousness though: if  interviewing for a job, kindly leave it behind. You don't want your next boss knowing you're SO much better...not just yet.

 

Now this one ain't funny at all. I don't know who she thinks she is with that rhinestone studded frame and the gold satin interior, and the perfectly matching mirror, with no foxing, and  no odor, and not a single mark or stain in sight, and with that kid leather sickeningly soft to the touch... I tell ya, there's no limit to this girl's delusion, she thinks she's some sorta glamourpuss.

Fancy a cuppa?

 

...Or should we simply call it: The Case of the Missing Saucer?...

Appealing as that may sound, I am not in fact inviting you to solve any great mystery, just hinting to a little project I was involved in recently at the Gloucester Antiques Centre, who by the way own the rights to these photos. 

But more about that later! Let's just say that I got the chance to show off one of my favourite winter outfits.

This green number accented with yellow bakelite buckle and buttons was the first 30's inspired knit mother made for me, and for that it will always be special. You can see it in more detail here.

 The jaunty Peter Pan style hat works perfectly with it and with my new  hair - well apart from those weird strands framing my face - but I guess I wouldn't be me if not a hair looked out of place (literally).  I'm really happy to finally see my hair fitting my 30's hats, especially as I haven't had a particularly successful hair cut, but this aspect appeases me a great deal. 

Finishing with my most beloved 30's shoes (also to be seen here) there isn't in fact a single aspect of this outfit I am not pleased about, which is pretty amazing as I have an unbeatable capacity to sweat the small stuff.

But what I love about it most is how very relaxed and joyful it feels, with its playfulness so typical of 30's sports inspired fashion. I feel as if I'm holidaying in the Alps, having fun on the slopes around some Swiss chalet, a la Claudette Colbert in I met him in Paris. 

Just to be decidedly nerdy, I'll add that that the pattern of this knit dates to 1937, the same year as the film :)

And that's all for now.

Cold weather gear

This past December I bought a fur coat. I never set out for a purchase of this kind, for several reasons: weather in Britain rarely calls for such extreme wrapping, fur coats are generally bulky therefore tend to overwhelm my small frame, and also because, in spite of already owning a couple of collars and a double fox pelt, I remain somewhat ambivalent about fur, albeit vintage. 

So here I am with my impulse purchase, which I tried on out of curiosity for the fit and ended up not being able to leave behind. 

 

Before I carry on, I expect that the caricature above might inspire some of your comments. Whereas I am fully aware that fur is a controversial subject,  I have no desire to entertain a conversation about the moral issues surrounding fur, as justified as they may be,  I am merely sharing an interest in a vintage item of fashion. There are plenty of other outlets to express your moral position should you wish to do so. I would like to remind everyone that my blog is a personal space and I hope that you will respect that. Thank you.

I must say this coat is very cosy, soft and lightweight. The fur is silky and short, the vendor wasn't quite sure as to the type of fur but suggested rabbit. 

With little expertise in this field, after a few hours of research I concluded that it could only be that or some type of weasel. It doesn't feel like a domestic cat, which is apparently one way to identify rabbit fur, but I guess processing can significantly change the texture and appearance of a fur. Rabbit fur is the lowest quality fur out there, and in the 50's they would have shaved it, dyed it, and generally processed the hell out of it  in order to make it look higher end. 

Rabbit fur also sheds badly and has a "life" expectancy of only 3 to 5 years, so if this is rabbit it certainly keeps in fantastic shape, with no bold patches of any kind and no shedding whatsoever. 

 

The coat has not one, but two labels which say "Hopetonella - Furs of Distinction" and "Fashioned exclusively from skins produced by Chapal of Paris". 

I had little luck in researching the first one, but the second bears the name of well known company in the fur and leather industry, going back as far as 1832 and still strong in present day. 

The 1950's adverts above are for Chapal products and both boast the merits  of rabbit (coney) furs. I have borrowed them, together with the previous caricature, from Chapal's website, which has a very consistent section regarding company's history with plenty of photographs if anyone is interested.

 

 While the labels place this item firmly in the 50's, I felt that I could also make it work with my 30's wardrobe. At the end of the day swing shapes were very fashionable as far as mid to late thirties coats go, and other features such as the raglan sleeve, roomier in the middle, as well as the turned cuffs and large collar (that can sit flat or stand up) further contribute to facilitating that impression.

A friend pointed to me that an alteration must have been done to this coat as the bottom row of pelts are significantly shorter then the others. Looking at these pics I am now convinced they are right and the coat would have been longer originally and therefore more aesthetically balanced. Luckily since I am only  5f 4 this hardly constitutes a tragedy.

 

And here is what I wore underneath: a green knit ensemble that I haven't had the chance to show so far on this blog. It was too cold today though to take more photographs of it outside, so I'll just tease you with this one and leave the details for a future post. 

I wore it with: vintage malachite necklace and earrings, embroidered linen blouse from the 70's (used to be ma's), modern croc impressed leather belt, and a most recent purchase - 1930's shoes which I love and suffer for (yes, small is the word).

That's all.